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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.